#Helicon focus vs photoshop software
#Helicon focus vs photoshop iso

I find that a setting of 3 works well, so I leave it at that. I now see that Photoshop CS4 has the same capacity. I was considering purchasing Helicon Focus in order to add depth of field to my macro shots. Change any of these and your depth of field changes as well. Discussion in Digital Darkroom started by dicklavine1, Nov 28, 2008.

There are too many variables at play for depth of field - the lens, focal length, distance to subject, and aperture. I am often asked if each FD can be translated into a quantifiable depth of field. The greater the focus differential setting, the more the focusing element in the lens moves between shots. On occasion, minor artifacts may appear in out-of-focus areas, but these are easy to deal with by using the Clone Stamp in Photoshop.

Focus Differential - 3 This seems to be the sweet spot so I never change it.

Number of bracketed shots - 8 This is usually ample and you could get away with fewer.

Focus Point - single point, positioned over your closest foreground object.

Aperture - usually between f/5.6 and f/7.1.

#Helicon focus vs photoshop iso

ISO - 200 Depending on lighting conditions I may increase the ISO, but I never use AutoISO.Mode - Aperture Priority (almost all of my landscape images are shot in A).It was a pioneer in its day, giving photographers of all disciplines the chance to edit their photos.

#Helicon focus vs photoshop software

It has a minimum focusing distance of 20cm and a field of view of up to 115°. Practically a household name at this point, Adobe Photoshop is one of the most powerful and popular photo editing software ever created. Regardless of which OMD camera body I happen to be using, my goto lens for this type of photography is the 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO. As mentioned earlier a tripod can be useful, but to be honest, the image stabilization of the OMD line-up is so good that I often forego the tripod. This will give me the field of view needed to capture the foreground, horizon and sky. Many of these images were also shot in vertical orientation and with the camera tilted down at about a 45-degree angle. For many of the images in this article the front lens element was about 6 inches away from the foreground subject. I opt to use focus bracketing/stacking when the foreground lacks larger points of interest and I want to accentuate the details of smaller foreground subjects like ice crystals, sea shells, small rocks, leaves, flowers, etc. Here is a breakdown of how I go about using this feature.

Although the scene may be substantially different from one location to another, the method by which I use focus bracketing/stacking remains fairly consistent.